Cairns to Mt Isa

For several days now I’ve not been able to get mobile or internet coverage so I have a lot to report. But since leaving Cairns I’ve travelled through some amazing country in Queensland’s outback ranging from grassy downs, along some rocky roads, through semi tropical rainforest areas near the gorges and have seen some rugged escarpments too. I’ve literally been off the beaten track, across one swollen creek and am pleased to say that the Fiat has made it with not too many troubles. ( For those interested in reading my blog, you would be well advised to do it in a couple of sittings.)

So I left Cairns and joined a convoy of 3 vehicles, (people I’d met on the Cape York trip). They were kind enough to let me tag along (little did they know what they were in for). I now had the call sign OBJ (Outback Julie) along with Storm (Ian and Joanne), Mother Hubbard (Geoff and Jenny Hubbard and Ian (no call sign ‘cos we couldn’t think of a name).

I’m now borrowing some of Joanne’s blog.

Toured the Coffee Works and the Heritage Museum, Tolga woodworks and then to Atherton.  We stayed at Atherton 2 nights as there was just so much to see.  Dairy - bought cheese, chocolates (we were all good and abstained) Humpy by the Road, fresh veg and nuts - yes we bought some of these.  Yungaburra and Yahoo we did get to see a great display of the platypus – (I’d already seen them so was able to direct them to the right place.)  Our 2nd day at Atherton was cold with showers, we all had to rug up in jeans and jumpers and were not pleased at all.  Visited the falls, Curtain Fig Tree and Lake Tolga.

Then it was on to Herberton Historical Village and then on to Undara Lava Tubes, situated SE of Mt Surprise. This is the longest lava flow from a single volcano in the world. We booked in to the campsite and experienced some bush camping. There was some entertainment during the evening, a poet who also thought he could play a clarinet - well he couldn't do either.  I nearly had to get up and tell some jokes, but there were children in the crowd. We were up early the next morning to do the guided tour. Our guide, same fellow from the night before, did a much better job explaining how the tubes were formed and the flora and fauna which now live there.

By now I suppose you’ve realised that we’ve been travelling the

Savannah Highway

. At Georgetown, Storm and I had to get a local mechanic to look at our vehicles.  I had blown a fuse and couldn’t get my 12v switch to work. I also didn’t know where to locate the fuse box and the mechanic just rolled his eyes when he knew it was a Fiat. Anyway, after a call to the motor home company, the problem was soon sorted out. Another attraction was TerrEstrial which incorporates the Ted Elliot Mineral Collection. This is a privately owned collection and has more than 4500 specimens. Such amazing colours.

About 90 minutes from Georgetown is Cobbold Gorge and we were to experience another spectacular outback adventure. The Gorge is owned and operated by Simon and Gaye Terry. The boat cruise took us past sandstone cliffs and we viewed the beauty of the 6km long, springfed gorge. This was after we had walked to the top of the escarpment for crocodile viewing. (I’m still not sure if the crocs we saw were real or just cement ones, as they didn’t seem to have moved at all when we returned to that spot.)

Then it was on to Croydon which once boasted 36 hotels in its hay day (there’s only one left but we can certainly recommend the beer there.) The local tourist bureau there can only be congratulated on the way it has presented the rich goldmining history of the town. The museum houses some fantastic collections of heritage items, photographs and information displays, along with some grand old heritage buildings which you can wander through by yourself. The Gulflander train, the RM39 is housed there and travels weekly to Normanton. Nearby Lake Belmore was also a lovely place to visit for lunch.

Leichhart Lagoon was our next stop.  Not a big drive but we had plenty of time.  It was a bush camp right next to a great lagoon.  The bird life was great and the sunset over the lagoon spectacular. Hope you enjoy some of the photos. 

Stopped at Normanton and bought up big at the Green Butcher, because we could have the meat cryovaked, so that we don’t need so much freezer space. (Not sure about the spelling)  We saw the Purple Pub but it was too early for a beer, and then took a 40 min ride on the old RM60 train, which needs a crank-handle to get it started. We then spent an hour at the info centre. Then we continued on to Karumba, only 70 kms down the road on the Gulf. It is well known for its fresh seafood so we lost no time in getting to the market to buy some.

One night we took the champagne, beer, camembert cheese, biscuits and prawns out to Karumba Point, set ourselves up on the lawn and watched the sun set.  It doesn't get better than this.

On Monday 8^th we left Karumba and travelled back to Normanton then on to Burke and Wills Roadhouse, stopping along the way to have morning tea with chocolate cake. I was having trouble with the CB radio (not working and possibly not charged). We decided to charge it through the 12v but that was the wrong thing as we discovered later. (Sorry, Glen, if you’re reading this.) Had lunch at Burke and Wills. Then on to Gregory Downs. Bought a beer at the pub because we were tired and thirsty after a long drive.

The sign said’ NO CAMPING AT THE RIVER’ but after talking to a couple of guys in the pub, we realised that people simply ignore this instruction, as there were dozens of people there already, taking  advantage of the swift flowing water for a refreshing swim and the magnificent campsites. Unfortunately we were a little too late to get a good spot so we camped a little further up, away from the water’s edge.

The trip out to Burketown next day was interesting as we stopped to take several pictures of large eagles feasting on the roadkill along the way. We had to take care in case we ran into a Brahman cow munching along the roadside. Morning tea for us was at a delightful spot called Beames Brook. (More chocolate cake) Continued on to Burketown and got some advice from the Shire about road conditions to Adels Gorge and Lawn Hill. I decided that I would take a chance and drive there myself in my van instead of taking my tent and driving with Ian and Jo. We looked at saltpans, the boiling water of the artesian bore, which has also built up mineral deposits in all colours of the rainbow. We were amazed at the numbers of brolgas we saw. 

Visited the pub to buy some beer and then went out to Leichardt’s Falls (absolutely magnificent.) Lunched nearby, headed back to Gregory Downs, arriving at about 4pm to pack the last things in our vans before setting off for Adels Gorge.

Ian and Jo got a flat tyre just out from Gregory so they stopped to fix it and suggested that I continue on towards Adels Gorge. The road was pretty rough and the van seemed to rattle and shake at every turn in the road. However, I mooched along until I came to a rather deep creek crossing where I waited until Ian and Jo arrived about half an hour later. Once they were across I felt I could do the same. It was deeper than I thought but I managed to get across without any problems. (Although later I discovered that the water pump wasn’t working properly. Fortunately, next morning it seemed to have righted itself). Also lost half a bottle of beer to the corrugations.

Adels Grove is well named for it has lots of shady trees .We booked in and selected our campsites. Then it was time for dinner (sausages, beans and mashed potato).

Next day we planned to drive out to Lawn Hill with me as the terrier again in Joanne and Ian’s car. (They christened me this because every time they opened the back door, I’d jump in.)  Another rough road so I was glad to be a passenger and the fact that it was only 10kms was a relief too. Decided to have lunch before doing our canoe trip. Canoe trip was fantastic even though I was a little apprehensive about doing it, owing to the fact that I probably haven’t been in a canoe for 40 years.

We took about 3 hours to go up and back stopping at a couple of places to swim near waterfalls and carry our canoes across a bit of dirt and rock to get to the next point in the river. Soooooo nice to swim there as the day was quite hot. Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) would have to be one of Queensland’s most scenic spots because it features spectacular gorge country and sandstone ranges which I hope you’ll see in my photos. Again it is fed by underground freshwater springs. To the Waanyi people,it is known as Rainbow Serpent country.

We were back at Adels Grove by 4pm feeling very exhausted but pleased with the day. It would probably rate as a10 out of 10 type day.

Camp oven meal tonight was a group effort – damper, roast lamb, bread and butter pudding and a fruit cake for tomorrow. Another scrumptious meal. Glad I put in the camp oven.

Next day, Thursday, we were up and packed early so that we could drive out to the gorge again to do the Indarri Falls walk. The loop took us to the falls and returned us via the hilltops and gorge rim. It was a moderate to difficult walk but we were pleased that we had all walked off some of the previous night’s dinner. The views were simply stunning.

Then it was back to Adels Grove to do the last minute things before heading back on that goddamn awful road to Gregory Downs. I made sure that I had the tarp ready to put over the front of the engine when crossing the creek again. I set off and got there before the others to find that a water truck was pumping out water from the crossing. However I wasn’t taking any chances and by the time the others had crossed over before me I realised that the level was much lower that expected. Phew, what a relief.

And with the extra packing I had done of the cupboards etc with towels, taping the glass lids over the sink and cook top and removing the TV and placing it on the bed, the drive back was much more secure and less rattling.  We were back at Gregory Downs by about 3pm and managed to get sites right beside the river, as the photos show. We all agreed that it was a perfect place to have the night.

Friday 12^th saw us on the road again heading for Mt Isa and the rodeo. 130 kms of rough road again but at least I was  prepared for it this time. Stopped for morning tea and lunch before meeting up with the sealed road some 40kms N of the main highway. Sooooo good to be back on the tar.

I’ll leave the Mt Isa Rodeo till my next blog.